Thursday, 29 December 2016

To South Georgia ...

After two days of going ashore we were raring to get back to the sea ... raring to head south ... and raring to cross the Scotia Sea and be out there on the bridge wing waiting to find ... well who knows what ?  ... that routine of scanning the ocean that fuels the promise of limitless expectation.

The bridge itself was an occasional haven and refuge from the falling temperatures on the wing ...


More Sooty Shearwaters passed by but in ever diminishing numbers ...



A Southern Giant Petrel came close by showing the greenish tip to the bill ...


... and Cape Petrels toyed with the disrupted winds around the ship ...


Ahead of us lay the fabled Antarctic Convergence where the sea temperature drops by around            5 deg C and creates upwelling which in turn produces the conditions favourable for producing an increase in plankton and so ... birds.
The other factor that we were constantly aware of was water depth ... were we over the continental shelf ?  Were we approaching an ocean ridge created by a subduction zone  resulting from tectonic plate activity where the sea was no longer 3,000 m deep but maybe 300 m deep ?  This might again produce more available food and perhaps be associated with cetacean activity which in turn could have potential benefits for seabird activity.  A visit to the bridge would always provide the information relating to sea temperature and water depth from the sophisticated instrumentation there.

Our first Light-mantled Sooty Albatross appeared - a species of astounding elegance and with wonderfully subtle velvety colour tones ...






... we would have more encounters with these birds on their breeding grounds ...


A juvenile Black-browed Albatross made a rare appearance - almost all individuals of this species that we saw were adult birds.  The darkish underwing and dark tip to the otherwise light grey bill showed well ...


Another juvenile albatross came by ...  this time a Grey-headed Albatross and another new species for me ...


... a very distinctive bird following on from the very many Black-broweds we had seen ...


... and sharing a similar underwing pattern.


Now that we were in the cold water zone the predominant prion was Antarctic Prion , with its darker head pattern, more extensive black on the tail tip and broader based more robust bill ...


...  we would encounter feeding flocks of these from time to time ...



The great albatrosses of the genus diomedea never fail to impress with their 2.5 - 3.5 m wingspan and this Wandering Albatross made several wide circles around the ship. This is another species associated with the cold water zone and less closely tied to the continental shelf than Southern Royal Albatross, the other member of the genus diomedea that we had become so familiar with.  This individual, in probably stage 3 plumage was still far from being adult ...




Another Southern Giant Petrel was on the sea.  This was a darker , younger bird but showed its greenish bill tip ...


... as it took off from the water.


Another cold water species that we began to encounter was Black-bellied Storm-Petrel which became quite common ...








Through the mist the Shag Rocks became perceptible and heralded our approach to South Georgia ...



... and gave a taste of the stark landscape which lay ahead.

A South Georgia Cormorant flew right overhead ...



A Northern Giant Petrel , now increasingly scarce as we headed south, put in an appearance showing its reddish tipped bill ...


... and small groups of 'porpoising' King Penguins made their way across the ocean ...



... and gave a taste of what lay in store ...





Friday, 23 December 2016

Two days on the Falklands

After a whole day at sea it was good to see land on the morning of 22nd November as we approached West Falkland... although it did look a bit murky ...


The plan was to visit West Point Island and Carcass Island and move on to East Falkland the following day 


Soon the zodiacs were launched and we headed for the shore.  A Blackish Cinclodes was feeding young and showed no concern about us.


And the Falklands endemic Cobb's Wren - restricted to rhodent-free islands - was equally confiding as it foraged along the shore.



It was a pleasant walk over West Point Island with Striated Caracaras flying overhead and foraging close by.



Dropping down towards a wide gully we approached a mixed breeding colony of Black-browed Albatrosses and Rockhopper Penguins.







On Carcass Island an adult Ruddy-headed Goose was with a group of goslings ..



... and a pristine male Kelp Goose was loafing ...


... while an even more striking looking female got involved in territorial action ...



The male Falkland Flightless Steamer-Duck is a great looking bird and even more impressive than the Flightless Steamer Ducks on Tierra del Fuego which in their turn had surpassed the Flying Steamer Ducks there..


... and of course Magellanic Oystercatcher was good to see as it posed on the shore ...



Both Magellanic and Gentoo Penguins were coming in from the sea to their breeding colonies - 'porpoising' intermittently in their dash through the shallows to avoid predators.  This Gentoo Penguin caught mid-leap ...


... before 'torpedoeing' up onto the beach ...


... and this Magellanic Penguin was reorientating after making landfall ...


A few Black-throated Finches were near the middle of the island ...



Having steamed around the north side of the Falklands overnight we landed at Stanley on East Falkland and headed along the coast to Whalebone Cove where the wreck of the Lady Elizabeth dominates the landscape.  She was built in Sunderland in 1879 and was damaged while rounding Cape Horn in 1913 and limped to the Falklands for repairs.  There she remains ...


The shoreline held a few White-rumped Sandpipers ( the last one of this species which I had seen was not too far from where the Lady Elizabeth was built - we are not the only ones to travel the globe ! ).


More exciting waders lay in store and close by a delightful Two-banded Plover was on the short turf ..


Further along the coast we came to Gypsy Cove with a rocky headland providing breeding sites for Rock Shags ...


... some strangely dark plumaged Night Herons of the race N.n.falklandicus ...


... and a displaying pair of Brown-hooded Gulls.  We had previously had very distant views of this species at Buenos Aires so it was good to catch up with nice views of this new gull for me ...


Heading back over the headland a striking Long-tailed Meadowlark perched on a cairn ...


... and a Grass Wren sang nicely ...


Another wader lay in store and to find this we headed for 'The Camp' - a rather unpromising looking area just outside Stanley with a selection of half-ruined shacks and definitely ruined vehicles with a vaguely military air.  Small pools interspersed these features.  A South American ( aka Magellanic ) Snipe stood by some tall vegetation and gave us our only views of one that didn't fly away before we had seen it ...


... but this was not the wader we had in mind ...  then a small plover flew across the rough ground and landed ... this was the target species ... Rufous-chested Dotterel ...


... several birds in varying states of plumage eventually appeared although, unlike most of the species we had seen these were never very approachable ... but delightful nevertheless !